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In this List of Perkins engines, family type refers to the two letter designation Perkins Engines gives each engine. This nomenclature was introduced in 1978 under Perkins' new engine numbering scheme, where the family type is encoded in each unique serial number. Engines that went out of production prior to 1978 may have been retroactively assigned a family type to expedite parts support (this is the case with the Perkins 4.107). Some engines never entered production, such as the Perkins 4.224, but were assigned a family type. In the early years, Perkins gave names to their engines, beginning with the smallest Wolf. The larger Lynx and Leopard followed (all four-cylinders), with the 1937 P6 was intended to be called the 'Panther.' After a lawsuit from motorcycle manufacturer Phelon & Moore, Perkins dropped the Panther (and Python and Puma for the corresponding P3 and P4 models) and stuck to abbreviations from then on.[1]
Perkins was sold by Massey Ferguson's parent Varity Corporation in 1998, and is now a fully owned subsidiary of Caterpillar Inc.
NES Life Member. Joined Apr 29, 2005 Messages 20,875 Likes 7,019 Location. If you can tell us the serial number on the butt, I. Aug 19, 2019 I sadly have a rough top NES. This means that the sides are all smooth but the top is rough. Although they appear similar, the smooth top does shine up nicer and is rarer. These models have low serial numbers and the customer service sticker lists a phone number for “Inside Washington State”. I have two Nintendo systems right now. One I am selling on Ebay which is the pre-Deluxe Deluxe set the serial number is N250301. My user name on Ebay is the same as this forum mischa316 if you would like to look at the listing. Or you could just put in item #48. I have an NES that is my personal one that serial number is N20522955.
| Family type Code | Engine Ref no. | Production Dates | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| AA | 1004-4 | 3990 cc, 100 x 127 mm bore and stroke. Also sold as the Phaser 90, it has 90 hp (67 kW; 91 PS). Also known as 4.40 | |
| AB | 1004-4T | Turbocharged version of the AA, sold as the Phaser 110T (110 hp). Also known as T4.40 | |
| AC | 1004-4T | ||
| AD | 1004-4TW | With intercooler, sold as the Phaser 120Ti. Also known as C4.40 | |
| AE | FCC4.40 | Federal emissions | |
| AF | 1004-40S | Gasoline engine. | |
| AG | 1004-4 | ||
| AH | 1004-4T | ||
| AJ | 4.401 | ||
| AK | T4.401 | ||
| AL | CCA4.401 | ||
| AM | CCW4.401 | ||
| AP | N4.401 | Narrow front end. | |
| AQ | TN4.401 | ||
| AR | 1004.42 | Sold to HYSTER corp. for use in small to medium lift trucks. | |
| AS | H4.421 | ||
| AT | CCAN4.401 | ||
| BA | 4.20 | Produced as a Joint venture between Perkins, UK government and the Austin Rover Group. Based on the Austin Rover O series engine this engine had major parts produced at Longbridge by Austin Rover with final assembly by Perkins. It was entirely designed by Perkins who also sold it to external customers. It was used by Austin Rover in the Austin Maestro and by LDV Group in their 2.5-tonne van. | |
| BB | T4.20 | As with the 4.20 but turbocharged with an intercooler. Used by Austin Rover in the Montego and later the Maestro.| | |
| CA | P3 | 1953–11 to 1967-03 | Three-cylinder diesel engine. Engine serial is a seven digit number beginning with 1000251. 67,433 engines were produced. Uses a timing chain. |
| none | F3 | 1957–08 to 1964-10 | Three-cylinder diesel engine. Built for Ford, with Simms injector pump. (Ford supplied all the block and head castings). |
| CB | 3.144 | ||
| CC | P3.144 | 1957–03 to 1969-05 | Three-cylinder, 144 cu. in. (2.4 L) diesel engine. Family type is CC. 2691 United Kingdom-built engines and 454 France-built engines were produced for Massey Ferguson; 30,346 were produced for other customers. |
| CD | 3.152 | used in many Lincoln brand mobile welders. | |
| none | F3.152 | 1962–02 to 1964-09 | Three-cylinder, 154 cu. in. (2.5 L) diesel engine. No family type. Built for Ford (Ford supplied the block & head castings) 64,496 made. Fitted to the Super Dexta |
| CE | D3.152 | Direct-injection versions of earlier 3.152 engine types. Produced for Massey Ferguson and other customers including Volvo (tractors) | |
| CF | G3.152 | G denotes 'gas' or ' gasolene' version. Spark-ignition variant of D3152 produced for common installation in Fork lift truck where D3152 engine was specified. | |
| CG | P3.152 | ||
| CJ | 3.1522 | Development of D3152 using Perkins 'squish lip' piston to give improved driveability of engine in emissions sensitive applications such as Fork Lift. | |
| CM | 3.1524 | Uprated D3152 engine. Board decision named this engine .4 despite no .3 ever existing due to recent launch of 6.354.4 and its success. | |
| CN | T3.1524 | Turbocharged version of 3.152.4. Initially used by Lindner, later by Massey Ferguson. | |
| CP | 903-27 | ||
| CR | 903-27T | ||
| CS | 903-25 | ||
| CT | 903-27S | ||
| DC | 1103C-33 | ||
| DD | 1103C-33T | ||
| DE | 1103C-33TA | ||
| DF | 1103B-33 | ||
| DG | 1103B-33T | ||
| DJ | 1103A-33 | ||
| DK | 1103A-33T | ||
| EA | 4.99 | Four-cylinder, 99 cu. in. (1.6 L) diesel engine. Wet sleeves, used in London Taxis, optional fit in Ford Thames vans, early Ford Transits, Bedford CA vans. | |
| EB | 4.107 | Four-cylinder, 107.5 cu. in. (1.8 L) diesel engine. Wet sleeves. Commonly used in marine applications. | |
| EC | T4.107 | Four-cylinder, 107.5 cu. in. (1.8 L) turbocharged diesel engine. Wet sleeves. Very rare (perhaps never produced). | |
| ED | 4.108 | Four-cylinder, 108 cu. in. (1,760 cc) diesel engine. Dry sleeves. An evolution of the 4.99 and 4.107. Almost 500,000 engines produced between the 4.99, 4.107 and 4.108. Used extensively in vans and light trucks, Ford Transit, Hyundai HD1000 Truck and Van (1977-1981), Bedford CA, some cars Opel Blitz, Alfa Romeo F12/A12, Alfa Romeo Giulia, SEAT 131.[2] Also used extensively in marine applications, farm equipment and Mustang/OMC skid-steer loaders. | |
| GA | 4.154 | Four-cylinder, 154 cu. in. diesel engine. Designed with sister engine 6.231 both produced in England. Later produced by licensee Toyo Kogyo (Mazda) under model # 4.154-200 series same as Mazda XA series. Later developed into 4.165/6.247 family. 4.154 was also an optional fit in Bedford CF vans | |
| GB | 4.135 | Based on 4.154.Produced only by Toyo Kogyo. (Mazda) Variant used in '82-'84 B2200 trucks and in '83-'84 Ford Ranger Diesels. Pushrod, dry sleeves and gear drive | |
| GC | 4.182 | Based on 4.154. Produced only by Toyo Kogyo (Mazda) | |
| GD | 4.25 | ||
| GE | 4.30 | ||
| GG | 402D-05 | 2-cylinder 0.51-litre / 13.7 Bhp Industrial Engine | |
| GJ | 403.10 | 3 Cyl Tier 3 EPA rated Engine replaced the 103.10 in the Caterpillar Arr# 145-6693 like in mini ex 301.8. | |
| HA | 4.165 | Four-cylinder, 165 cu. in. diesel engine. Based on 4.154. Assembled by Perkins in Hannover for VW LT van, and by Enasa in Spain for various vehicles including the Nissan Patrol (as the MD27) | |
| JA | P4 | 1937–06 to 1967-05 | Four-cylinder diesel engine. 97,390 engines were produced. |
| JB | 4.192 | 1958–05 to 1972-01 | Four-cylinder, 192 cu. in. (3.1 L) indirect-injection diesel engine. Used in the MF 65 mk.1 tractor. |
| JC | P4.192 | no information | |
| JD | 4.203 | Four-cylinder, 203 cu. in. diesel engine. | |
| none | L4 | 1952–10 to 1961-07 | Four-cylinder indirect-injection diesel engine. Commonly used in agricultural applications. No family type. Regarded as grandfather to later 4.236. |
| JE | D4.203 | Four-cylinder, 203 cu. in. direct-injection diesel engine. Used in the MF 65 mk.2 and MF 165 mk.1 tractors. | |
| JF | G4.203 | Gasoline version. | |
| JG | 4.2032 | ||
| LA | 4.212 | Four-cylinder, 212 cu. in. (3.5 L) diesel engine. Essentially, a 4.236 with a smaller stroke. Used in the MF 165 mk.2 and International Harvester 475 tractors. | |
| LC | none | This family type was reserved for a 224 cu. in. version of the 4.236, but never entered production. | |
| LD | 4.236 | Four-cylinder, 236 cu. in. (3.9 L) diesel engine. | |
| LE | G4.236 | Four-cylinder, 236 cu. in. (3.9 L) gasoline (or propane) engine. | |
| LF | 4.248 | Four-cylinder, 248 cu. in. (4.1 L) diesel engine. Essentially, a 4.236 with a larger bore. | |
| LG | 4.2482 | This development of the 4.236 series was designed to use the Perkins 'squish lip' piston which gave emissions benefits although had lower specific output compared to conventional direct-injection engines. It was used in fork lift applications as an alternative to the smaller swept volume 4.236. | |
| LH | C4.236 | Four-cylinder, 236 cu. in. (3.9 L) 'compensated' (lightly turbocharged) diesel engine. | |
| LJ | T4.236 | Four-cylinder, 236 cu. in. (3.9 L) turbocharged diesel engine. | |
| LM | 4.41 | ||
| NA | 4.270 | Four-cylinder, 270 cu. in. (4.4 L) diesel engine, produced from 1958–12 to 1974–04. | |
| NB | 4.300 | Four-cylinder, 300 cu. in. (4.9 L) diesel engine. | |
| NC | 4.318 | Four-cylinder, 318 cu. in. (5.2 L) diesel engine. Used in MF 1080, 595. | |
| ND | 4.3182 | Improved version. Used in MF 698. | |
| RA | 6.247 | Straight 6-cylinder, normally aspirated diesel, only ever fitted to Dodge 50 range in the UK also known as the 'Black' Perkins engine. Most engines made under license by Mazda and used in their light trucks during the late 70s and 80s. | |
| RE | Perkins 1104 | Straight 4-Cylinder Nat asp or Turbo, OEM power unit Fitted to JCB loadall or Thwaites Dumpers | |
| PA | P6 | 1938–01 to 1961-04 | Six-cylinder, 288 cu. in. (4.7 L) diesel engine, rated at 86 bhp at 2,600 rpm. The highly successful P-series of engines established Perkins' reputation as one of the world's major builders of diesel engines.[3] |
| PB | 6.288 | 1960–04 to 1964-01 | Six-cylinder, 288 cu. in. (4.7 L) diesel engine, . |
| PC | 6.305 | 1959–03 to 1970-02 | Six-cylinder, 305 cu. in. (5.0 L) diesel engine. Enlarged version of P6 using CAV DPA injection pump. |
| none | C.305 | 1958–06 to 1961–05. | Horizontal version of 6.305, developed in conjunction with Commer Cars Ltd.[4] |
| none | 6.306 | 1965–12 to 1975–12. | Six-cylinder, 306 cu. in. (5.0 L) diesel engine. Short-stroke 6.354, stroke same as 4.212. Possibly only used in Australian Chamberlain tractor. Not to be confused with the 6.305. |
| unknown | R6 | 1953 to 1962 | Six-cylinder, 340 cu. in. (5.56 L) diesel engine, rated at 108 bhp at 2,700 rpm and 240 lb ft at 1,500/1,750 rpm. Rushed development led to major problems with this engine, with consequent damage to both Perkins' reputation and finances. Although, the problems were solved quite quickly and the engine was relaunched as the R6 Mk2, with a reduced rating of 104 bhp at 2,500 rpm. Sales never recovered after the early problems and only 33,800 engines were built before production ended in 1962.[5] |
| none | S6 | 1939–05 to 1962-10 | Six-cylinder, 377 cu. in. (7.4 L) diesel engine. Very similar to the highly successful P6, the S6 was rated at 115 bhp at 2,000 rpm for passenger vehicles and 105 bhp at 1,800 rpm for goods vehicles.[6] |
| TC | 6.354 | 1960 to 1996 | Six-cylinder, 354 cu. in. (5.8 L) diesel engine, initially rated at 112 bhp at 2,800 rpm and later at 120 bhp. Highly successful engine which restored Perkins' reputation after the problematic R6. Developments of the engine, including turbocharged versions remained in production until 1996, by which time over a million had been built at Peterborough plus substantial numbers in other countries.[7] |
| TD | H6.354 | Six-cylinder, 354 cu. in. (5.8 L) horizontal diesel engine. A slant engine, used in marine applications. Very rare. | |
| TE | T6.354 | Six-cylinder, 354 cu. in. (5.8 L) turbocharged diesel engine. | |
| TF | HT6.354 | Six-cylinder, 354 cu. in. (5.8 L) horizontal turbocharged diesel engine. Very rare. | |
| TG | 6.3541 | ||
| TH | T6.3541 | ||
| TJ | 6.3542 | ||
| TK | C6.3542 | ||
| TP | T6.3543 | ||
| TR | 6.372 | Larger bore version of 6.354. Same size bore as 4.248. Only used in MF combine. | |
| TT | TC6.3544 | ||
| TU | T6.3544 | ||
| TV | T6.3724 | Larger bore version of 6.354. Same size bore as 4.248. Only used in MF combine. | |
| TW | 6.3544 | Horizontal version used in some British Raildiesel multiple units, e.g. classes 158, 165, 166 | |
| TX | C6.3544 | ||
| TY | H6.3544 | ||
| TZ | HT6.3544 | ||
| XA | V8.510 | V-8, 510 cu. in. (8.4 L) diesel engine. | |
| XB | TV8.510 | V-8, 510 cu. in. (8.4 L) turbocharged diesel engine. | |
| XC | V8.540 | V-8, 540 cu. in. (8.8 L) diesel engine. | |
| XE | TV8.540 | V-8, 540 cu. in. (8.8 L) turbocharged diesel engine. | |
| XG | 1103D-E33 | Electronic Governing | |
| XH | 1103D-E33T | Electronic Governing / Turbocharged | |
| XJ | 1103D-E33TA | Electronic Governing / Turbocharged / Air to air charge cooled | |
| XK | 1103D-33 | ||
| XL | 1103D-33T | Turbocharged | |
| XM | 1103D-33TA | Turbocharged / Air to air charge cooled | |
| YA | 1006-6 | 5985 cc, 100 x 127 mm bore and stroke (as per 'AA' four-cylinder). Also known as the Phaser, continued Perkins 'one litre per cylinder' design. No longer in production. | |
| YB | 1006-6T | Unknown - 2014 | Turbocharged version of the above, also known as the Phaser 160T for its 160 hp (119 kW) max power. No longer in production. |
| YC | 1006-6T | No longer in production. | |
| YD | 1006e-6TW | Unknown - 2014 | Intercooled model with 180 hp (134 kW) max power, marketed as the Phaser 180Ti. No longer in production. |
| YF | 1006-60S | No longer in production. | |
| YG | 1006-60 | No longer in production. | |
| YH | 1006-60T | No longer in production. | |
| YJ | 1006-60TA | No longer in production. | |
| YK | 1006-60TW | No longer in production. | |
| ZA | V8.640 | V-8, 640 cu. in. (10.5 L) diesel engine. | |
| ZB | TV8.640 | V-8, 640 cu. in. (10.5 L) turbocharged diesel engine. | |
| none | T12 | Twelve-cylinder diesel engine, two banks of six cylinders arranged in a V . Produced for marine use during the war, Perkins used one on a standby generator at the factory which is now in preservation. | |
| none | 2000/3000 Series Mechanical (Shrewsbury) | Closed in 2002 and production of these engines ceased.[8] | |
| 1206-TA | Diesel, Six-Cylinder, 7L, Made in Peterborough, UK. | ||
| 1506-TA | Diesel, Six-Cylinder, 8.8L, Made in Seguin, USA Caterpillar factory. | ||
| 1606-TA | 2015 - 2017 | Diesel, Six-Cylinder, 9.3L, Made in Seguin, USA Caterpillar factory. | |
| 2206-TA | Diesel, Six-Cylinder, 12.5L, Originally made in Stafford, UK, now all made in Seguin, USA Caterpillar factory. | ||
| 2506-TA | Diesel, Six-Cylinder, 15L, Originally made in Stafford, UK, now all made in Seguin, USA Caterpillar factory. | ||
| 2806-TA | Diesel, Six-Cylinder, 18L, Originally made in Stafford, UK, now all made in Seguin, USA Caterpillar factory. | ||
| 2806-TTA | 2018- | Six-Cylinder, 18L, Originally made in Stafford, UK, now all made in Seguin, USA Caterpillar factory. | |
| DGDF,[9] DGBF[10] | 4006 Series Diesel | Six-cylinder, 23L turbocharged air-to-air charge-cooled diesel engine. | |
| DGAH,[11] DGBH[12] | 4008 Series Diesel | Eight-cylinder, 30.5L turbocharged air-to-air charge-cooled diesel engine. | |
| DGDM,[13] DGBM,[14] DGNM,[15] DGKM[16] | 4012 Series Diesel | Twelve-cylinder, 46L turbocharged, Diesel, available in Air-to-Air (TAG) and Air-to-Water (TWG) charge-cooled models. | |
| DGWR,[17] DGPR,[18] DGXR[19] | 4016 Series Diesel | Sixteen-cylinder, 61L turbocharged charge-cooled, Diesel, available in Air-to-Air (TAG) and Air-to-Water (TRG) charge-cooled. | |
| none | 4006 Series Gas | Six-cylinder, 23L turbocharged charge-cooled spark-ignition gas engine. | |
| none | 4008 Series Gas | Eight-cylinder, 30.5L turbocharged charge-cooled spark-ignition gas engine. | |
| none | 4012 Series Gas | Twelve-cylinder, 46L turbocharged charge-cooled spark-ignition gas engine. The 4012 gas product has been discontinued and is no longer available.[20] | |
| none | 4016 Series Gas | Sixteen-cylinder, 61L turbocharged charge-cooled spark-ignition gas engine. |
See also[edit]
- Perkins Engines - Company article
- Frank Perkins - Founder of the Company
- Massey Ferguson - Former parent company of Perkins engines
References[edit]
- ^Boulton, David (May 2002). 'The P6 Engine: A Design Ahead of its Time'. Perkins Long Service Club.
- ^'The story of the 4.99 / 4.107 / 4.108 Engine - Perkins longserviceclub'. Retrieved 2 July 2015.
- ^'THE P6 ENGINE - Perkins longserviceclub'. Retrieved 2 July 2015.
- ^'New Perkins 'Flat' Engine | 19th September 1958 | The Commercial Motor Archive'. Archive.commercialmotor.com. 19 September 1958. Retrieved 2 July 2015.
- ^'THE R6 ENGINE - Perkins longserviceclub'. Retrieved 2 July 2015.
- ^'PERKINS Ii iCES NEW | 21st October 1939 | The Commercial Motor Archive'. Archive.commercialmotor.com. 21 October 1939. Retrieved 2 July 2015.
- ^'The 6.354 Story - Perkins longserviceclub'. Retrieved 2 July 2015.
- ^https://www.fwi.co.uk/news/perkins-shuts-shrewsbury-engine-plant
- ^'About Perkins 4006-23TAG2A'. January 2019.
- ^'About Perkins 4006-23TAG3A'. January 2019.
- ^'About Perkins 4008TAG1A'. January 2019.
- ^'About Perkins 4008TAG2A'. January 2019.
- ^'About Perkins 4012-46TAG3A'. January 2019.
- ^'About Perkins 4012-46TAG2A'. January 2019.
- ^'About Perkins 4012-46TWG3A'. January 2019.
- ^'About Perkins 4012-46TWG2A'. January 2019.
- ^'About Perkins 4016-61TRG2'. January 2019.
- ^'About Perkins 4016-61TRG1'. January 2019.
- ^'About Perkins 4016-61TRG3'. January 2019.
- ^https://www.perkins.com/en_GB/products/new/perkins/electric-power-generation.html
- Perkins Diesel Conversions & Factory fitted units, by Allan T. Condie, 2nd edition 2000, ISBN0-907742-79-3
The 4 107T was used in UK Military electricity generating sets, the engines when in need an overhaul were rebuilt by a Kent based engineering works in Ramsgate, adjacent to the inner Harbour known as Walkers Marine (Marine Engineers) Ltd. Houchins of Ashford an MOD contractor would send an MOD inspector to verify dynamometer testing of power and smoke emissions both on start up and full power for one full hour (27 horsepower produced at 3000 rpm) being used near military front lines any excessive smoke whilst running would give the armies position away. When the transport vessel 'Atlantic conveyor' was sunk during the Falklands conflict a large quantity of these generating units were lost. The engines were highly stressed due to turbo charging, the 4-107T used a Holset Brand turbocharger without after-cooling, and the longer 4-108 pistons with extended skirts, also a toughened tufftrided crankshaft, larger diameter cylinder head studs were used to contain the high combustion pressures. The engines when rebuilt could take up to four days of diligent running on the 'Heenan and Froud' water dynomometer with great care given regarding application and duration of the load as minor tightening was not un-common, and a heavy seizure could result in disassembly and liner and piston replacement. But once run in the process of gaining full power with minimal rpm overshoot or droop or heavy black smoke was achieved by finely adjusting the injection timing and governor load springs in the CAV DPA injection pump.
Ian V Curtis recollections whilst an apprentice Diesel Engineer at Walkers Marine during the 1980s.
External links[edit]
| Wikimedia Commons has media related to Perkins diesel engines. |
- Kanoo Machinery - Distributors in the Middle East[permanent dead link]
NES Collecting can be fun, but it also can be very expensive.
Let’s get that straight right off the bat about NES Collecting. It’s notthat cheap anymore. After 2010 there has been a Retro gaming boom in collecting.
Given the right knowledge about collecting for the NES, you can probably save a few bucks here and there!
I’ve collected for the NES before as well as many other systems, and recently I’ve gotten back into it.
I sold my last batch of NES stuff whenever I needed some quick cash a few years ago. Be sure to check out the Retro Gaming Podcast!
Join up in my Discord and we can talk about retro games and collecting all day long!
With that said let’s get down to business, down to NES collecting.
Where to start with NES Collecting?
My first suggestion is you need a console to play the games on. Some people like to collect for “investment” but that’s not always a good idea since prices fluctuate all the time.
Although games haven’t really dropped in price in a long time it’s still not ideal to collect to invest. There isn’t a huge market for retro collectors; it’s very small.
So What options do you have?
You have a wide variety of options, it’s really all about what you want to experience. If you want the authentic experience in 2020 you really need to stick with the original front-loading “toaster” model which is the most familiar.
Problems with the original NES.
The NES toaster in 2020 still has all the problems it had in the 80s, and the 90s. However, you can almost fix 90% of your problems by replacing one thing. All you are going to need is a Phillips head screwdriver and a new 72-pin connector.
Amazon 72-Ping Connector – (https://amzn.to/2BvfQwc)
This may not fix all of the problems you might have (though it has fixed every one of the issues I’ve come across) but it will fix the majority. The blinking light and loose carts are the biggest problems and this fixes them.
After Market 72-Pin Connectors.
Replacing things is a pain and it doesn’t always work, or as is the case with many of the 72-pin connectors, they don’t work exactly as the original did.
The majority of the replacements give somewhat of a death grip on the NES carts. I will say it is manageable, just a tad annoying that it takes a bit of a force to get your cart out.
So stick with the cheap 72-connectors unless you want to spend $30+ for a better fix which is also a great solution, the arcade works BLW (Blinking Light Win.)
Sadly, NES Collecting and repairing almost goes hand in hand unless you want to pay someone to fix it.
Different Model’s of the Nintendo Entertainment System
Want the rarest of the rare for your collection? Well, you are in luck! Turns out many people have discovered that Nintendo’s original NES changed top molds during later production.
I sadly have a rough top NES. This means that the sides are all smooth but the top is rough. Although they appear similar, the smooth top does shine up nicer and is rarer. These models have low serial numbers and the customer service sticker lists a phone number for “Inside Washington State”. Those are the only real differences between that model so look out for smooth tops!
There is another model known as the Top Loader. Released in 1993 as a cost reduced version of the original NES.
The Top Loader.
These guys seem to be pretty rare. I’ve seen a real one once in my entire life if that says anything. Because it was released one year after the SNES they did not sell in large numbers so today they are somewhat uncommon.
No need to change a connector, all the carts should work flawlessly as long as the carts themselves are clean. The problem with the top loader for me is I don’t have any nostalgia for it whatsoever. Also without a MOD, you don’t get A/V output but RF only (unless you have a Japanese top loader which has AV out). This is no easy mod either, not for beginners anyway.
The “Dog Bone” NES Controller is a great controller too. Stay on the lookout for these on your NES Collecting adventures.
Yes, you can still play games on your HDTV.
People get confused and think that it’s not possible. It’s very playable on my 1080P HDTV.
I’m even using the RF adapter in the back on good ol’ channel 3.
HDTVs usually have converters in them allowing this to work now so no special equipment is needed.
Official NA NES System Serial Number Registry! - Page 6 ...
The quality isn’t great but what do you expect when you are blowing up a very small image from 240p to 1080p?
So what’s the problem with HDTVs and Retro Games?
You don’t get to play your cool Nintendo Zapper gun games such as duck hunt. Luckily I have in my garage a nice CRT TV where many of my retro consoles are already working.
There is also an issue with some input lag. So the best way to really play retro games and have everything working is to stick to CRT TVs.
Also, please don’t buy one from eBay that is listed as a “retro Gaming CRT“. Some of them truly are great for retro consoles, but most of them just want your money. You can easily find a CRT TV in Goodwill or Craigslist or something.
Most people give them away. I would pick up one soon as who knows how much longer they will last.
Best quality on an HDTV.
There are options for you if you just want to play on an HDTV, but they are pretty expensive, and no matter what you do the zapper gun will not work.
You can buy a device called an upscaler which will allow you to input A/V and convert it to HDMI.
Cheap upscalers are pretty awful, and the input lag will probably drive you insane whenever you are trying to make difficult jumps on Mario or finish Mike Tyson.
The best cheap one is called KanexPro. I really wouldn’t trust it.
The best of the best upscalers is called the Framemeister, but it is not on the cheap end of things.
What if you don’t want to deal with upscaling or HDMI mods?
You still have a few options.
There is the Retron 5
The latest from Hyperkin, the Retron 5 which lets you play 5 different systems on your HDMI TV, but it’s really just a glorified emulation machine.
- Retron 5 Console – Amazon Link | (https://amzn.to/2DB0fvr)
Personally, it’s one of the ugliest things I’ve ever seen but it’s got a cool concept and it’s fairly cheaper than the rest of the solutions to play a bunch of systems and only requires one hook-up to the TV. So if you want the all-in-one system you might want to pick this up.
RetroUSB AVS
This is personally my favorite option if you want to hook up to an HDMI TV. This looks legit like a newer version of the NES. It has the flap to stick your NES game in. It’s not super expensive if you are planning on wanting the best quality on a newer tv and you just want to play NES games.
It sits around $170 if you preorder. It’s real hardware, and there is no emulation which is awesome to me.
Pick up the RetroUSb AVS Here – (http://www.retrousb.com/product_info.php?products_id=78)
The Analogue NT
It has the top loader look, it uses real Famicom FPGA boards, this has all the bells and whistles. It also is extremely expensive. It’s so expensive in fact they made it more expensive if you have the money to lay down on a gold version for $4,999.
If you wanted to get into Famicom (Japanese NES) this plays it also. I don’t really recommend this, I’d rather spend my money on games. I like the look of the AVS way better too.
If you want a wireless NES Controller you have a few options.
You can buy an 8 Bitdo Wireless controller but you will also have to buy the wireless NES adapter.
- 8 Bitdo Wireless Controller – Amazon Link| (https://amzn.to/2thleyq)
- NES 8 Bitdo Adapter – Amazon Link | (https://amzn.to/2DydQDv)
I believe they are made for the NES Classic or Mini but it should still work with the adapter.
Console Serial Number Guide | Nintendo 64 Wiki | Fandom
NES Game Collectors
This is where your true NES collecting adventure begins. But first you will need weapons and by weapons, I mean Nintendo Security Bits.
Picking up these will allow you to take cartridges apart, not only allowing you to clean them easily but also to check and make sure something fishy isn’t going on. There are lots of repros out in the world and tons of horrible fakes. Some NES games also used coin cell batteries to save games. Being able to open the carts allow you to inspect for leaking batteries and to change dead ones. So grab your trusty Nintendo Bit and set off for an adventure.
eBay
This is always a safe place to find the game you really want. Most prices are fair but it will be at the eBay price. Speaking of eBay prices you can always check out pricecharting.com to see what the prices are going for which I highly recommend.
You might get lucky and find a nice deal on eBay. If you do you can almost guarantee it won’t be around long. Expect to pay close to the top dollar on eBay for a really rare game.
Gamestop and Other Chain Stores.
Stay far away. Chain stores are possibly the worst place to catch a deal. I’ve heard of horror stories of what Gamestop does. Accepting repro carts and sending people games without testing them.
Most of the other chain retro stores aren’t going to do that to you as they are trained to look for and test games but the prices will be top dollar. Gamestop has yet to have a deal yet on a retro game and if it is, it is probably fake. If you want used modern games sure go ahead. Retro games stay far far away.
Collecting Retro Games Best Deals
You are going to find the best deal from looking around at flea markets, yard/garage sales, and friends and co-workers. Also Non-chain mom and pop gaming stores. I picked up Mario/Duck hunt cart for $3 the other day and it really doesn’t get much cheaper.
Some of these people will go clean out a closet they haven’t set foot into for years and just want to get rid of junk.
Another good source is Facebook Sell Groups; you might get lucky and catch a few deals there, and always keep Craigslist up as people like to drop some nice prices on there as well.
A good tip is to always carry some cash around as you never know who might have a sign up while you are traveling around. If you don’t like going to flea markets and yard sales etc.. then this really isn’t the hobby you want to pursue.
Looking for a few kids’ games to get your youngsters started on the NES? Check out this post top 5 NES games for NEW gamers.
Collecting Storage
After you have a fairly decent collection from your NES collecting adventures you are going to want to show them off, right? RIGHT?
Time to invest in some decent shelves! Walmart actually has pretty decent shelves for fairly cheap. A lot of people like the IKEA brand billies, which are probably better shelves. But, I’m putting NES games on it and you are going to need a LOT of space. There are a total of 714 known licensed game titles for the NES, of which 679 were released in North America. Also, Goodwill and Peddler’s Mall usually have some decently used shelves for you to pick up.
Collecting NES Games
Nintendo Serial Number
It’s according to how you want to do your NES collecting. You can go for a full collection, games you actually like, complete in box collections, and even new never opened.
For now, what I’m doing I’m searching for only loosegames that I really like and would play. I eventually want to try to collect as close as I can to a full loose collection.
Here is a list of some of the must-have nes games you can target at first just to have a great time!
How To Find The Serial Number Of Your Console - Nintendo
Complete in the box is even a bigger niche which is going to be harder and going to cost a heck of a lot more than finding a loose cart.
Conclusion
Now that you have all the knowledge, and knowledge is power, you are ready to conquer the world of NES Collecting.
I really hope that this helped someone out there on the internet. Please leave a comment below and follow me on Twitter!
Twitter – https://twitter.com/realkynerd
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NES Collecting: Helpful Guide & Tips For Collecting Retro ...
*Updated* 2020